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Tunisian Crochet Ribbed Beanie
designed by Kim Guzman © Dec. 2006
Email to email@example.com
Technique: Tunisian Crochet
Finished Size Approximately 24-25″ around
Note from Designer: This hat fits me perfectly. Adjustments may need to be made if making for a man.
A swatch worked in Stitch Pattern across 19 sts for 19 rows in TFS equals a 5″ square
This type of crochet (Tunisian) is most enjoyable and produces the best results when you work loosely.
If you are unable to get the proper gauge, do not hesitate to move up to a larger hook size.
- 1 skein (6 oz.) Simply Soft – Autumn Red (or color of your choice)
- Afghan Hook: Size I
- Yarn needle
Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS): Sk the first lp. Notice that each vertical bar goes up into the horizontal bar (upside down chain) and back down the other side. For the Tunisian Knit Stitch, you will insert your hook between these two vertical bars (front and back), under the chain. Insert your hook, as described, YO and pull up a lp.
Tunisian Full Stitch (TFS): Sk the first lp. Notice again the vertical bars that go up into the horizontal bar. For the Tunisian Full Stitch, you will insert your hook under the horizontal bar into the space between the vertical bars, ensuring that you do not go into any vertical bars. Insert your hook, as described, YO and pull up a lp.
Please see my Videos for the Tunisian Knit Stitch and the Tunisian Full Stitch.
Hat is worked vertically in short rows and seamed.
Row 1 (Foundation Row): Ch 36. Sk first ch. Pull up lps in the “back bump” of each rem ch. 36 lps on hook. Closing YO and pull through one lp on hook. * YO and pull through 2 lps on hook. Rep from * across to end.
Row 2: Sk first vertical bar. Working as for TFS, insert hook under first horizontal bar (space between vertical bars) and pull up a lp. Working as for TFS, insert hook under next 28 horizontal bars, pulling up lps for each. 30 lps on hook. Closing Close as for Foundation Row.
Row 3: Sk first vertical bar and first horizontal bar. Working as for TFS, insert hook under next 23 horizontal bars, pulling up lps in each. 24 lps on hook. Closing Close as for Foundation Row.
Row 4: Sk first vertical bar. Working as for TFS, insert hook under first horizontal bar and pull up a lp. Working as for TFS, insert hook under next 16 horizontal bars, pulling up lps for each. 18 lps on hook. Closing Close as for Foundation Row.
Row 5: Sk first vertical bar and first horizontal bar. Working as for TFS, insert hook under all horizontal bars remaining, including the horizontal bars remaining from Rows 2-4, pulling up lps in each. Working as for TKS, pull up a lp in last vertical bar. 38 lps on hook. Closing YO and pull through one lp on hook. (YO and pull through 2 lps) 7 times. YO and pull through 3 lps on hook. (YO and pull through 2 lps) 8 times. YO and pull through 3 lps on hook. * YO and pull through 2 lps. Rep from * across to end.
Note: On Row 5, there were 2 decreases made when you pulled through 3 lps on closing. Care needs to be taken on rows following this decrease. There is no horizontal bar between the two vertical bars of the decrease. So, when doing a TFS, you skip those two vertical bars, counting them as one vertical bar.
Rep Rows 2-5 until piece measures approximately 24-25 inches, ending with a Row 5.
Sk first vertical bar. * Working as for TFS, sl st under each horizontal bar across. Cut off.
With yarn needle and about 18″ piece of yarn, seam the last Row to the Foundation Row. With another piece of yarn, weave yarn loosely along the edge of each row at the top of hat. Cinch gently, drawing the hole together and sew together to maintain the closure. Weave in all ends securely.
Turn the hat so that the “back” of the piece is showing and fold up the brim.
Note: From time-to-time, there could be mistakes in my patterns no matter how much they're tested and tech-edited. Mistakes can happen in writing, tech-editing or during pattern layout. If you find a mistake, please feel free to email me. Until computers start designing and writing patterns, mistakes will happen. I have been designing and writing patterns for over 20 years. All of my designs have been created originally by me. Any similarities to any other designs are purely coincidence.