Have you ever worked with laceweight yarn? I remember the first time I worked with laceweight. It was a cashmere blend.
The trick is to use a bigger hook than you would expect. When I had a bit of my project finished, it felt so surreal (in a dreamlike sort of way). It felt like I had just stepped back in time to 100 years ago.
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The project was so dainty that I couldn’t believe I just crocheted it. It felt more like someone else had crocheted it a century before. Amazing!
Remember that the yarn is very fine, but that doesn’t mean that you have to use a teensy tiny hook! This project is made in laceweight with a 4mm G hook. Opens up some new possibilities, doesn’t it?
Laceweight yarns can be made of many different fibers so don’t worry if you’re allergic to wool. You can find laceweight in many different animal fibers, but you can find plant-based fibers as well.
When you get finished, you are going to want to block your project. When you first crochet it, your project won’t look like it does in the above photo. When you crochet an afghan, the yarn itself is heavy enough to weigh down the yarn and you won’t need a lot of blocking.
When you use laceweight, though, you aren’t going to have all that weight on the project and you need to take some very simple steps to open up the lace.
I don’t want you to be afraid of blocking. Even I was intimidated by all the blocking pins, blocking boards and blocking wires currently on the market.
The truth of the matter is that you don’t *have* to make every edge perfectly straight. You don’t have to make stark corners. You don’t have to make perfectly precise points. I actually prefer my blocking to be more organic and here’s what I do.
Fill a bowl with cool water. Dip your project completely in the water. Gently squeeze out excess water. Roll the project in a clean, dry towel to remove as much water as possible. Now, place your project on a clean, flat surface. Stretch out and shape as you desire then allow to dry. You will see the lace open up immediately and it’s truly a beautiful thing.
I found this stitch pattern to be relatively easy to memorize, but I had to consistently count throughout to ensure that I didn’t place my stitches in the wrong places. When working on the “rise” of the ripple, you put a lot of stitches in one spot and that can pull it enough that it covers up the next stitch. You have to be careful that you don’t accidentally skip that next stitch.
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This pattern is chart only. If you prefer written instructions, you can find a similar item in the same stitch pattern HERE.
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