A special thank you to Kirsten of Kirsten Holloway Designs for the fabulous photography. Visit her website HERE.
Snow Drifts Pixie Hood
designed by Kim Guzman © Jan. 2018
Technique: Regular Crochet
Cable Section: 2″ wide, 29″ long
Hood Section: approx. 26″ at start and 21″ at end, measured across stitches
Hood measurement from front to back seam: 12″, measured across rows
Cable Section isn’t very wide so it’s best to simply try to meet the width measurement above. Row gauge is 8 rows measures 4″.
Hood section is worked in back loop half double crochet only at a loose gauge of approximately 14 stitches and 9 rows measures 4″.
- (A) Red Heart “Super Saver” (100% acrylic, aran size 4 weight, 236 yds per 5 oz): 2 skeins color Almandine
- Suggested hook size: 7mm
- Yarn needle
- Optional Pom Pom Maker
Thank you to Red Heart for providing the yarn used in this project.
This project is made flat. You start by making a slim cable strip then you turn the strip on its side and pick up stitches along its long edge. From those stitches, you work in half double crochet. Once complete, you fold in half and seam the back. Add pom poms to the two short edges of the cable strip.
Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc): Yarn over, with hook in back of work, insert hook to the side of the indicated stitch, move hook around the front of the stitch and out the other side of the same stitch (hook is in back of work again), yarn over, pull loop through, [yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook] twice.
Front Post Treble Crochet (fptr): Yarn over twice, insert hook to the side of the indicated stitch, move hook around the back of the stitch and out the other side of same stitch, yarn over, pull loop through, [yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook] 3 times.
Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): Yarn over, insert hook to the side of the indicated stitch, move hook around the back of the stitch and out the other side of same stitch, yarn over, pull loop through, [yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook] twice.
Row 1: Ch 11, sk 2 ch (counts as first hdc here and throughout cable section only), hdc in each rem ch, turn: 10 hdc.
Row 2: Ch 2, sk first hdc, bpdc around next 8 hdc, hdc in last hdc, turn.
Row 3 (RS): Ch 2, sk first hdc, sk 4 dc, fptr around next 4 dc, working in front of last 4 sts worked, fptr around 4 skipped dc, hdc in last hdc, turn.
Row 4: Ch 2, sk first hdc, bpdc around next 8 dc, hdc in last hdc, turn.
Row 5: Ch 2, sk first hdc, fpdc around next 8 dc, hdc in last hdc, turn.
Row 6: Ch 2, sk first hdc, bpdc around next 8 dc, hdc in last hdc, turn.
Rows 7-54: Rep rows 3-6.
Rows 55-57: Rep rows 3-5, fasten off. Note: You don’t really have to fasten off here. You could simply turn the cable section on its side and begin the hood section. I fastened off and joined on the other long side solely because I liked the little scallops formed and I wanted those showing around the face. You are free to continue with row 1 of the hood section or do what I did, fasten off and begin row 1 on the other long side.
Note: For this section, I preferred the look of one chain at the beginning and I didn’t count it as a stitch. If two chains work better for you, you can use two chains.
Row 1: With RS facing, join with sl st to long edge of cable section, ch 1, work 94 sc evenly along sides of rows, turn.
Note: Begin working in back loops only throughout. If the last stitch of a row gets a little stretched out, work the last stitch under both top loops instead of only the back loop.
Row 2: Ch 1, sk first sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, sk 1 sc, hdc in last sc, turn: 92 hdc.
Row 3: Ch 1, hdc in each hdc across, turn: 92 hdc.
Row 4: Ch 1, sk first hdc, hdc in each hdc across to last 2 hdc, sk 1 hdc, hdc in last hdc, turn: 90 hdc.
Row 5: Ch 1, hdc in each hdc across, turn: 90 hdc.
Rows 6-21: Rep rows 4-5. On final row, 74 hdc.
Row 22: Rep row 4: 72 hdc, fasten off.
Fold row 22 in half and seam with yarn needle.
Make 2 full pom poms and attach one to each short edge of cable section.
Weave in all ends securely.