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Reversible Pinstripe Scarf
designed by Kim Guzman © Oct. 2005
Email to email@example.com
Technique: Double-Ended Tunisian
Finished Size 55 x 8″
A swatch worked with the double-ended hook in the Stitch Pattern found in the Instructions
across 13 sts for 13 rows equals a 3″ square
This type of crochet (Tunisian) is most enjoyable and produces the best results when you work loosely.
If you are unable to get the proper gauge, do not hesitate to move up to a larger hook size.
- CA – 3 balls Zara Merino Extra Fine wool, 50 grams each (136.5 yards per ball) – Light Navy
- CB – 2 balls Zara Merino Extra Fine wool, 50 grams each (136.5 yards per ball) – Faded Denim
- Double-ended afghan hook: Size H (or any size hook giving you proper gauge)
- Regular crochet hook: Size F
- Yarn Needle
For this project, I used a cabled double-ended afghan hook. If you are unable to find a cabled double-ended afghan hook, you are able to use a regular double-ended hook. It takes a little more thought when stitching, however. Open only the number of loops that will fit comfortably on your hook. Before you finish the row, turn and close those loops with the other color. Leave about three stitches on the hook. Turn the hook around and continue opening the stitches. Turn whenever you feel that there are enough stitches on your hook and close them, always leaving at least 3 before turning to open more. This will enable you to use even the smallest length of double-ended hook for a large project.
Closing the stitches: Unless instructed otherwise, all rows are closed with a typical Tunisian crochet closing as follows: chain 1, [yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook] across. One loop remains on your hook.
The merino wool used in this design is a DK weight. The recommended knitting needle size is
7. Look for comparable yarns that are approximately 136 yards to each 50 gram ball. But, honestly, this design will work with
varying sizes of yarn/wool. Simply make your beginning chain as long as you would like and start on the Stitch Pattern. Of
course, with different sizes of yarn, you will require different amounts and possibly, a different size hook. But, the pattern
should work just fine.
Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS): Insert hook in a side-to-side motion under the front vertical bar, yarn over, pull up a loop.
Tunisian Reverse Stitch (TRS): Placing your hook BEHIND your work, insert your hook in a side-to-side motion under the back vertical bar, yarn over, pull up a loop. For the
Tunisian Simple Stitch (above), you place your hook under the front vertical bar. This is the reverse. It makes a firm
ridge on the right side of your work.
Please see my Videos for the Tunisian Simple Stitch and the Tunisian Reverse Stitch.
Row 1: With CA and double-ended afghan hook, ch 225. Sk first ch. * Insert hook into next ch, YO and pull up a lp.
Rep from * to end. Drop CA. Turn hook and push all lps to the opposite hook. With CB, make sl knot on hook. With CB, close all stitches in a Typical Closing (see Notes above).
Row 2: With CB, TRS across. Drop CB. Turn hook and push all lps to the opposite hook. With CA, close all stitches in a Typical Closing.
Row 3: With CA, TSS across. Drop CA. Turn hook and push all lps to the opposite hook. With CB, close all stitches in a Typical Closing.
Rep Rows 2-3 until a total of 27, rows have been completed. Rep Row 2 once more. Cut off CB. Do not cut off CA. Begin
working in rounds.
Rnd 1 (RS): Change to regular crochet hook, ch 1, inserting hook as for TSS, work 3 sc in first vertical bar, inserting hook as for TSS, work 223 sc across, inserting hook as for TSS, work 3 sc in last vertical bar, working along short edge, work 26 sc evenly across, work 3 sc in corner, working along long edge, work 223 sc evenly across, work 3 sc in corner, working along short edge, work 26 sc evenly across, sl st to first sc and into next sc, turn.
Rnds 2-4: Ch 1, working in back loops only, sc in each sc around, with 3 sc worked at each corner, sl st to first sc and into next sc, turn.
Fasten off, weave in all ends securely.
Note: From time-to-time, there could be mistakes in my patterns no matter how much they're tested and tech-edited. Mistakes can happen in writing, tech-editing or during pattern layout. If you find a mistake, please feel free to email me. Until computers start designing and writing patterns, mistakes will happen. I have been designing and writing patterns for over 20 years. All of my designs have been created originally by me. Any similarities to any other designs are purely coincidence.