Add this project to your Ravelry favorites HERE.
To print or convert to PDF click the green “Print Friendly” button below the pattern.
Notice and Disclaimer: All crochet patterns written by Kim Guzman at CrochetKim are in US terms. All photos not copyright to Kim Guzman are posted with permission. This website contains affiliate links.
Pinstripe Tube Top and Shrug
Double-Ended Tunisian (or Cro-Hook)
designed by Kim Guzman © Apr. 2014
Technique: Double-Ended Tunisian
Pattern written in size 2, with 4, 6, 8 and 10 written in parenthisis.
Actual measurements of completed tube top: 32 (33, 34, 35.5, 37)”, buttoned.
The finished measurement will be about two inches more than actual bust measurement. The post stitch ribbing will pull it in at the top and bottom. If cup size is higher than C, it may be necessary to pull in the post stitches by working some decreases as well. Additionally, the bottom ribbing can be omitted if the “pulling in” isn’t desired at the bottom. Be aware that, due to the differences in above bust measurement (everyone will have a different cup size and I won’t be writing this pattern for every cup size), you may need to experiment with different sizes of hooks for the Ribbing until you find one that fits you best. Experimentation around the ribbing of the Shrug may also be required.
An 18 st x 18 st swatch worked in Stitch Pattern with double-ended hook measures 4″ square.
This type of crochet (Tunisian) is most enjoyable and produces the best results when you work loosely.
If you are unable to get the proper gauge, do not hesitate to move up to a larger hook size.
- A – Aunt Lydia’s Denim – 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) balls
- B – Aunt Lydia’s Denim – 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) balls
- Double-ended afghan hook: Size H (or any size hook giving you proper gauge)
- Regular crochet hook: Size G [4mm]
- 8 (8, 8, 9, 9) Size 11/16″ buttons
- Yarn Needle
- Sewing thread (to sew on buttons)
- Sewing needle (to sew on buttons)
- Ruler or measuring tape
About the Yarn Used
The yarn used in this project has been discontinued for many years. Some of you may still have it in your stash and I felt that the discontinued yarn is no reason to never offer this pattern again.
Aunt Lydia’s Denim was available in balls of 400 yards. It was a worsted weight 75% cotton/25% acrylic yarn.
I no longer have this project so I don’t know the exact amount of yarn used for each size. For instance, I’m certain that I didn’t use 800 yards of color A to make it. But, I don’t know exactly how much I used.
After researching several yarns, I found a yarn which I believe to be a great substitute. Knit Picks Comfy Worsted which can be seen here. When thinking about yarn substitution, remember this this is a warm weather garment. A cotton/acrylic blend will hold its shape while still allow the fabric to breathe. You wouldn’t want a 100% acrylic since it would be like wearing an afghan. And, alternatively, a 100% cotton fiber may be too heavy. However, 100% cotton would be lovely, but you may need to put some elastic in the top portion.
Closing Stitches: Unless instructed otherwise, all rows are closed with a typical Tunisian crochet closing as follows: chain 1, [yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook] across. One loop remains on hook.
Tunisian Simple Stitch (tss): Insert hook in a side-to-side motion under the front vertical bar, yarn over, pull up a loop.
Tunisian Reverse Stitch (trs): Placing your hook behind your work, insert your hook in a side-to-side motion under the back vertical bar, yarn over, pull up a loop. For the
Tunisian Simple Stitch (above), you place your hook under the front vertical bar. This is the reverse. It makes a firm
ridge on the right side of your work.
Please see my Videos for the Tunisian Simple Stitch and the Tunisian Reverse Stitch.
Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from side of indicated stitch, going around the back of indicated stitch and from back to front on opposite side of indicated stitch, yarn over, pull loop through (3 loops on hook), continue double crochet normally.
Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front at side of indicated stitch, going around the front of indicated stitch and from front to back on opposite side of indicated stitch, yarn over, pull loop through (3 loops on hook), continue double crochet normally.
Row 1: With A and double-ended afghan hook, ch 32 (32, 34, 34, 36), sk first ch, *insert hook into next ch, yo and pull up a lp, rep from * to end, drop A, turn hook and push all lps to the opposite hook, with B, make sl knot on hook, still with B, close all stitches with Typical Closing (see Notes above).
Row 2 (RS): With B, trs across, drop B, turn hook and push all lps to the opposite hook, with A, close all stitches with Typical Closing.
Row 3: With A, tss across, drop A, turn hook and push all lps to the opposite hook, with B, close all stitches with Typical Closing.
Rep Rows 2-3 until piece measures 31.5 (32.5, 33.5, 35, 36.5)” from beginning, rep row 2 once more, cut off B, do not cut off A.
Row 1: With regular crochet hook and A, ch 2, working across long edge, hdc evenly across, adjusting stitch count as necessary to ensure an odd number of hdc, turn.
Row 2: Ch 2, sk first st, *FPdc (see Special Stitches) in next st, BPdc in next st, rep from * across to last st, hdc in last st, turn.
Rep row 2 until ribbing measures 1.5″, fasten off.
Rep Top Ribbing on the opposite long edge.
Right Front Buttonband
Row 1: With RS facing, attach A with regular crochet hook to short edge, ch 1, sc evenly along short side, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc across, turn.
With stitch markers or small pieces of yarn, mark 8 (8, 8, 9, 9) evenly-spaced positions along band with 1/2″ at top and bottom edges.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc across, except at buttonhole positions, [ch 3, sk 2 sc], turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc across with 2 sc in each ch-3 sp of buttonhole, turn.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc across, fasten off.
Left Front Buttonband
Row 1: With RS facing, attach A with regular crochet hook to opposite short edge, ch 1, sc evenly along short side, turn.
Rows 2-5: Ch 1, sc across, turn.
Attach buttons to correspond with all buttonholes, weave in ends securely.
With A and double-ended afghan hook, ch 52 (56, 60, 64, 66), begin as for Tube Top until piece measures 1″ from beginning.
Decrease by 1 st at the beg of next 12 rows by inserting hook under 2 lps for the first st of the row–40 (44, 48, 52, 56) sts rem on final row.
Cont in Stitch Pattern with no decreasing until piece measures 19 (19, 20, 20, 21)” from beg.
Increase by 1 sts at the beg of next 12 rows by pulling up an extra loop in the row below–52 (56, 60, 64, 66) sts on final row.
Cont in Stitch Pattern with no increasing for 1″ more, ending with 1 lp of A on hook, bind off all sts with A, cut off B, do not cut off A.
Work Ribbing as for Ribbing on Tube Top. Join A on the opposite side and rep Ribbing.
With RS together, stitch a seam 2.5″ long starting at the Ribbing side, matching sides of rows, on both sides of Shrug.
With regular hook and RS facing, join A with sl st at either of the seams, ch 1, sc evenly along the inner portion of Shrug, sl st to first sc, fasten off, weave in all ends securely.
Many of you have written to me to ask how you can help support CrochetKim. A Patreon account was suggested but I thought it would be better to provide ad-free PDFs of my patterns so you would get something in return. I'm steadily working on adding PDFs to all my patterns and I've also made this compilation available at a discounted price. You can, of course, view, print, paste to a word processor, convert to PDF, etc. on your own. This is just an extra feature so that people help out, if they want. Thank you to all of you for your overwhelming support and kindness these many years. Enjoy!