designed by Kim Guzman © Sep. 2016
Technique: Double-Ended Tunisian
Notice and Disclaimer: All crochet patterns written by Kim Guzman at CrochetKim are in US terms. All photos not copyright to Kim Guzman are posted with permission. This website contains affiliate links.
7″ x 7″
- A: Red Heart Creme de la Creme, 100% combed cotton worsted weight yarn, 125 yds per 2.5 oz ball
- B: Red Heart Scrubby, 100% polyester highly-textured eyelash worsted weight yarn, 78 yds per 3 oz ball, shown in color Citrus
- Double-Ended Tunisian Crochet Hook Size: H-5mm (or hook necessary to meet gauge or fabric preference)
- Yarn needle (for weaving ends)
I had one ball each of the Scrubby and the two cotton solids. I almost had enough Scrubby that I could have made four cloths. I was just 2g short of making the fourth so I changed my stitch count on the fourth one to 22 stitches. You can expect to use about 40 grams of product (20g of A and 20g of B) for each cloth.
14 tss for 11 rows measures 4″.
Beginner level double-ended Tunisian.
Other Helpful Videos
The videos demonstrate how to do the stitch but you’ll need to follow the pattern instructions so you will know when to turn and use the opposite end of the hook. You can, of course, do the entire project in regular Tunisian, but it won’t look the same.
When turning back and forth to change balls of yarn, watch which direction you are turning the hook so your yarn doesn’t become tangled.
Normally when working in Tunisian crochet, you will stitch the last stitch under two bars to keep an even edge. This isn’t really necessary in double-ended Tunisian and I don’t recommend it for this project. It made the edges pull in too much. It is recommended that you only work under one bar like the rest of the stitches for this project.
If this is your first time working in this technique, you may want to practice a little bit with a couple of smooth yarns.
Always remember that you will turn to begin using the other color ONLY when the hook is full of loops. Ignore your natural instinct to change colors when you are at the stage when you have one loop on your hook.
Use any number of stitches you want in order to change the size.
A: With A, ch 25, sk first ch, *insert hook in next ch, yo, pull lp through, rep from * across, drop A, turn hook 180 degrees to begin working from the opposite side: 25 lps on hook.
B: With B, yo, pull through 1 lp on hook, *yo, pull through 2 lps on hook, rep from * across: 1 lp remaining on hook (counts as first st of next row here and throughout).
A: Still with B, sk first vertical bar, tss across, drop B, turn hook 180 degrees to begin working from the opposite side.
B: With A, yo, pull through 1 lp on hook, *yo, pull through 2 lps on hook, rep from * across.
A: Still with A, sk first vertical bar, tss across, drop A, turn hook 180 degrees to begin working for the opposite side.
B: With B, yo, pull through 1 lp on hook, *yo, pull through 2 lps on hook, rep from * across.
Rows 4-20: Rep rows 2-3, rep row 2 once more.
Final row: Still with A, sk first vertical bar, insert hook as for tss, yarn over, pull loop through stitch and through loop on hook (slip stitch made), working as for tss throughout, slip stitch across to end, fasten off.
With yarn needle, weave in all loose ends securely.
Many of you have written to me to ask how you can help support CrochetKim. A Patreon account was suggested but I thought it would be better to provide ad-free PDFs of my patterns so you would get something in return. I'm steadily working on adding PDFs to all my patterns and I've also made this compilation available at a discounted price. You can, of course, view, print, paste to a word processor, convert to PDF, etc. on your own. This is just an extra feature so that people help out, if they want. Thank you to all of you for your overwhelming support and kindness these many years. Enjoy!