Most cro-hook patterns you will find are worked with color reversibility. The ability to make two different fabrics seems to have been overlooked.
As you can see with this scarf, rather than one color on each side, there are two distinctly different sides, each just as beautiful as the other. I love that I can get two looks from the same scarf and this technique makes it easy.
Read more about cro-hook below the pattern or you can read about the differences here: Tunisian crochet vs double ended crochet.
7″ x 50″
- Stylecraft Special Double Knit yarn, 100% acrylic, 322 yds per 100g: 1 skein each of Storm Blue and Gold (about 210 yds of each color required)
- Size 5.5mm Double Ended Hook (double-ended hook with cable measuring approximately 20″ or more from hook tip to hook tip is recommended for ease.) I use this one from Knitpicks.
- Yarn needle (for seaming and weaving ends)
16 stitches for 15 rows measures 4″ square
Foundation Row: This project starts with a typical foundation row.
Chain the indicated number, skip first chain, *insert hook in next chain, yarn over, pull loop through, leave loop on hook, repeat from * to end.
Closing: All rows in this project will be completed with the same closing as follows: chain 1 (to close the first stitch), [yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook] to close each remaining stitch. 1 loop remains on hook which counts as the first stitch of the next row.
Tunisian Reverse Stitch (trs): With hook in back of work, insert hook in a side to side motion (right to left for right-handers or left to right for left-handers) under back vertical bar, yarn over, pull loop through. The hook stays in the back of the work throughout the stitch.
Tunisian Purl Stitch (tps): Bring yarn to the front of your work, insert hook in a side to side motion (right to left for right-handers or left to right for left-handers) under front vertical bar, yarn over, pull loop through. This is essentially the same thing as a Tunisian Simple Stitch except that it has a little wrap of yarn around the front vertical bar.
Binding Off (final row): For this project, there is a Tunisian Reverse Stitch Bind Off. Insert your hook as you would for a Tunisian Reverse Stitch, yarn over, pull loop through the stitch and through the loop on the hook.
You are making a slip stitch. Make this slip stitch all the way across.
When turning back and forth to change balls of yarn, watch which direction you are turning the hook so your yarn doesn’t become tangled.
Normally when working in Tunisian crochet, you will stitch the last stitch under two bars to keep an even edge. This isn’t necessary in double-ended Tunisian and it’s not recommended for this project. Work under one bar like the rest of the stitches.
If you like, work the last stitch in the front vertical bar only throughout. This will make a neater edge, but isn’t necessary. Try each to see which you prefer.
While working with the double-ended hook, you may find that you have too many loops on your hook at one time for the project to be manageable. In this instance, pull up as many loops as are comfortable for you (you DO NOT have to complete the row). Turn your hook over and close all the loops except for the last four or five. Turn your hook back over and continue pulling up loops as before.
Repeat this process as necessary to complete the row. If you would like to see this in action, we have a video for a different stitch pattern that shows how to work in sections to get across the row. (view video at minute 10:12)
Crochet Pattern Instructions
Row 1 (Foundation)
A: With blue, ch 200, sk first ch, *insert hook in next ch, yo, pull lp through (leave lp on hook), rep from * across–200 lps on hook, turn hook to begin working with opposite hook tip.
B: Pull through gold to close the first st, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] across, ending with one lp on hook (counts as first st of next row, here and throughout).
A: Still with gold, sk first vertical bar, trs (see Special Stitches above) across–200 lps on hook, turn hook to begin working with opposite hook tip.
B: Pull through blue to close first st, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] across, ending with one lp on hook.
A: Still with blue, sk first vertical bar, tps (see Special Stitches above) across–200 lps on hook, turn hook to begin working with opposite hook tip.
B: Pull through gold to close first st, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] across, ending with one lp on hook.
Repeat rows 2-3 until 25 rows completed. Repeat row 2 once more.
Binding Off (see Special Stitches above)
Still with blue, sk first vertical bar, *insert hook as for trs in next st, yo, pull lp through st AND through lp on hook (slip stitch made), rep from * across. Fasten off.
With yarn needle, weave in all ends securely.
What is cro-hook?
Cro-hook is a subset of Tunisian Crochet, called Double-Ended Tunisian Crochet. It can also be called cro-knit. It is made with a tool that has a crochet hook of the same size on each end.
Although the cabled hook is recommended to make things easier, like other double-ended Tunisian crochet, it’s possible to make the scarf with a non-cabled hook too.
Double-Ended Tunisian Crochet has unique properties from regular Tunisian. It often will have a different look on each side whether that is a different color or a different fabric look or texture. This makes the project fully reversible.
Unlike regular Tunisian, you aren’t controlled by the length of your hook. Normally you would only be able to make a project up to three times as long as your hook. However, because of the Bedspread Technique, explained below, you could make a 6-foot project with only a 6-inch hook, if you desire.
Also Double-Ended Tunisian Crochet doesn’t typically have the same curling as regular Tunisian so you don’t need to plan ahead to avoid it.